Climbing

Mon 25 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Waterfront, The

Barefoot in Barbados 5.10a Sport, TR

Pre work TRS, 3rd lap clean. Nice and frosty conditions, first tracks post snow :) Really fun undercling/sidepull movement to 2nd bolt, challenging slabbin to b3 and fun contrived slap finish. Can avoid pretty much all polished rock staying right of bolts

Sat 23 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Keel

Gen Z 5.10+ Trad

With Tammy, wow what an incredible granite sport climb! Keeps coming at you with many different styles, amazing!!!

Mezzanine 5.11- Sport

With Tammy, came back after ramen with Amy and Kaylyn and sent! Helped that Kevin, Nate, and Tammy TR’d it and by doing so cleaned up the rock a little. Such a great line

Mezzanine 5.11- Sport

With Nate, 3 star arete climbing! Would be 4 if the rock didn’t exfoliate so much. Fell several times on arete. Left foot on broken arete, right foot onto chicken splotch. Work feet on left side, then ridge, then right side, side pulling arete for good pressure. Gear: 1,3,bad green totem

Inertia Creeps 5.9 Trad

With Nate, fun movement especially over the lip and slightly heady, bad grainy rock in spots

Fri 22 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Romance on the Rocks 5.10d Trad

Altered States Gully

With Tammy, holy shit that was heady and fun! Easier but R climbing to the first bolt, exciting movement to second bolt, and I got shut down trying to get to the third bolt. Tammy was a trooper and I whipped about a dozen times trying different beta haha. Found some good sequences (and exfoliating rock lol) but eventually got worn down and bailed, will be back with more slab wisdom one day! Gear: 2x 2, .5, 1 (extend everything), fingers for the top?

Squeeze My Lemon 5.7 Trad

Lizard Head Wall

Warmup with Tammy, splitterrr. She ran that shit out

Errant Edge 5.10a Trad

Lizard Head Wall

With Tammy, such great exposure! Tammy loves slab :) Bolts right where you want them, tried out moves on TR first.

Thu 21 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Aqueduct Area, The

Aquaduck 5.10d R Trad

With Tammy and Nate TRS. Really fun sequences on cool rock, but no good pro for the first 25 ft or so, leading would be dangerous. Maybe a nut where the curved crimp is

Burning Bits 5.10c Sport

With Nate and Tammy, an interesting introduction to BCC. Glad I had the nuts haha

Wed 20 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz 5.11d Trad

Plumb Line Gully

Funky goodness with Tammy and glen. Couldn’t figure out inverted beta and ended up laybacking

Mantels to Mazatlan 5.10d Sport

Waterfront, The

With Tammy and glen, fun challenging traverse to the chicken head ladder! Could lead it but boy would it be heady

Acapulco Arete 5.10b Sport

Waterfront, The

With Tammy and glen, great movement on the arete

Unknown 5.9 Trad

Waterfront, The

With Tammy and glen, fun!

Sun 17 Nov 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Fin Wall

Cactapuss 5.12- Trad

With mango, low small nut (size below gold dmm offset), 0 z4 up and right of left hand jug (optional .1 in sketch corner below jug), then 2x .4 totem to chains. Work left foot high in pod, place last totem just before next foot pod. Right hand deep thumbs down lock in foot pod, left hand ring lock in constrictions above. Left foot in crack on slightly broken edge. Right hand thumbs down above broken spot (not in broken spot, this is where I fell and ripped a flapper), then sinker left hand pinkies down. Right hand thumbs down one more time (optional foot smear right) then high left foot into pod. From here stand up to chains

Cactapuss 5.12- Trad

Mango put it up, worked out sequence

Nagasaki 5.11- Trad

With mango, great warmup! Interesting sequence off the deck (blue totem), then fun long chimney in green/purple. Then reds, one gold one blue.

Sat 16 Nov 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo

The Hostess 5.11 Trad

Followed mango , very fun! Felt easier than serrator. No helmet

Fuzz 5.10 PG13 Trad

With mango, Austin, gabby, Ryan, sunny, Casey and friends! Slammmmmmmmmerrrrrrrrrrr

Serrator Crack 5.11- Trad

Owiiiie with mango! Next time long sleeves for sure. Fell repeatedly in transition between calf locks and thigh lock. Painful left knee. Focus on the back foot (heel/arch against offset, top of foot banana in crack, left leg in, body lean to right). 4, 5, 2x 6, 7

Layaway Plan 5.11+ Trad

With mango, grrrrrr fell at the 1s bulge before the roof, pumped and should have rested more (or layback the bulge). The roof felt really solid, first try! WC 3, .4, 3, 4x 1, 2, 2x1. Roof 1, green met, 2, after roof black met

Way Rambo 5.12- Trad

With mango and Casey, got so close but foot popped just before the final traverse womp womp. Felt really solid, focus on sinking the feet next time and i think i got it. 2, 3x 1, .5 totem for first traverse, 4x .75 (big green, preferably black mets)

Fri 15 Nov 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress

Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner) 5.10 Trad

Super moon night send with mango!

Mon 11 Nov 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Cannibal Crag

A Man in Every Pot 5.8+ Sport

With Colin, Jackie, Jodie, addy and lupin

Sun 10 Nov 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress

Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) 5.10b PG13 Trad

With Colin, wow what a memorable arete! Exciting edge climbing and nothing felt 5.10, just fun dancing back and forth across the arete

Ginger Cracks 5.9 Trad

With Colin, beautiful day! Pitch 2 was my favorite. We skipped the last two pitches in favor of bladerunner

Sat 09 Nov 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (04) Second Pullout (Calico II)

Glitter Gulch 5.11a Sport

Sweet Pain Wall

With Colin addy and Megan, really fun side pulls!

Pain Relief 5.9+ Sport

Sweet Pain Wall

With Colin addy and Megan so fun going thru the bowl

Desert Pickle 5.11c Sport

Wall of Confusion

With Colin, Addy, and Megan. Got sandbagged to warm up on it haha, second go was really close, stuck the crux move but fingers stopped working and couldn’t make the last moves to the jugs. Think it would go with just a touch more endurance

Thu 07 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Coffin Buttress

The Viewing 5.10a R Sport

With Tammy, wow incredible pink patina! Bolt spacing was super reasonable, ready for the lead :)

The Coffin 5.9 Trad

With Tammy, as classic as everyone says it is!

Wed 06 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Plumb Line Gully

Boomerang 5.10a Trad

With Tammy, first pitch twice. Fell first go and felt really good second go! Hard style for me but learned lots :)

Plumb Line 5.10a Trad, TR

Mourning the next 4 years of our country with Tammy. Climbing is great therapy tho!

Mon 04 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Lizard Head Wall

Unknown Slab 5.10b Trad

With Tammy and new friend glen! 2 laps on TR, second lap clean. Fun slab and chicken head mantles. Getting to bolt 3 would be exciting!

Sun 03 Nov 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Salt Lake Slips

High Fructose Corn Syrup 5.8 Sport

Another LRS effort with Edelrid 8.9, still didn’t feed at all :/ must be missing something… fun to get out in a break in the snow

Sat 02 Nov 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped

Desert Eagle 5.11+ Trad

Cool down with mango, really fun scumming and stemming, got pumped just before the rest stem and fell. Could definitely go fresh. #3, .4, .5, .4?, .5x2, ,75x4-5, 2, 1, 1?

Yehaw 5.12 Trad

Followed mango, actually felt really good! Pumpy grey purple corner at the bottom gives way to good blocky rests, place some high greens and gun it for left hand ring lock in constriction (place gear?) then huck it to good right hand pinkie down lock and then hand jam finish

Sig Sauer 5.12a Trad

With mango, met a couple crushers that sent! Fell at the orange metolius section, think I could get that part clean but boiiiiiiii that .3-.4 crack at the top felt sharp and I could not move my hands up

Revenge of the Rock Gods 5.10+ Trad

Warmup with mango, Tammy and Dorian! Dressed up as Mr meseeks :) brand new katanas and did not trust my feet thru the fingers slipped out

Spaghetti Western 5.11 Trad

With mango, fun steep 2s! With some good body scum at top. Almost lost it low in the 75s

Wed 30 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater 5.10d Trad

With Tammy, finally! Flash pumped and scared first time, smoooooth like butter second time. Ran into Ben, absolute crusher was doing full layback laps!

Sun 27 Oct 2024

Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion National Park > The Confluence

Crimson King 5.11c Trad

Great challenge with mango! Fell at the low crux getting right foot up to layback to the pod (lay back left hand, left foot smear on bad divot/mound, right hand??). The rest of the climb was sustained and limit for me, but so fun to get it clean! .1 (or nut?), .2, .3 then bump, .5 and .4, then easier. After that 3x .3, 2x .4, 2x black totem

Smashmouth 5.11 Trad

Mango linked P1-2 (bad rope drag), I linked p3-4 (rest at intermediate anchors). Such a fun finger crack great practice and kinda sporty at times :) no underwear was harmed in the making

Sat 26 Oct 2024

Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion National Park > Temple of Sinawava

Monkeyfinger 5.12 Trad

With mango, first climb in Zion! What a striking corner up the wall. I led slab p1, p3 black corner crux, p5 long hands corner. Gave the black corner an honest effort but it quickly brought me to my knees haha. Pumpy placing gear and did not feel secure on the slippery opposing wall, aided through it after several tries. Mango led the monkey finger pitch, it was so fun to follow! Pretty wasted by that point but the intro traverse was technical and hard. Sun came out at noon and sapped our energy pretty quickly. Never used the 5, used 1x 4. Had quads of finger sizes

Tue 22 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad

Followed Tammy’s crusher redpoint!

3 Amigos 5.9+ Trad

With Tammy, bad friction in the sun but fun crack switch!

Mon 21 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Bells Canyon > Middle Bell Tower

Arm and Hammer 5.10b Trad

Beautiful adventure climbing with Tammy! Fun pendulums, a little bit of slabbin, and the most memorable 5.8 I’ve ever been on! 1:40 approach, 5 hour climb+rap, 1 hour descent

Sun 20 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Green Adjective Gully

Victory Gardens 5.9 Trad

Warmup with Jacob. Wonderful weather and every route had a line lol. Fun but would not repeat

Stormy Resurrection 5.11b Trad

With Tammy, Jacob and Christian. Great climb tons of techniques! Steep purple/green crack into chimney, blind undercling sequence with slab feet, hand jam to off width slanting crack! Got pumped and fell at the bolt, gonna chalk it up to fatigue from hard training yesterday. Took me a while to read the traverse sequence but I’m proud I got it clean. Can’t wait to come do it again :) .5, .75, .75 (good .5 little higher), bolt, .5, .5, .75, .4, undercling sequence then #2, #4. Pants, brown. Optional gloves for the finish (can put them on above the chimney).

Sat 19 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Tick Fever 5.11a Trad

Wheeler-Newsome Wall

With Jacob, as helllllll yea. It’s all in the baddonkadonk. Triple greens, no reds

Enter the Dragon 5.11- Trad

Dragon Arch

With Jacob, and we ran into Angella doing gimme danger next door! I led the approach and the last pitch, Jacob crushed it on p2. Last pitch felt very confident and secure, fingers are definitely getting stronger and technique has improved by miles! Love it just wish it was longer

Tue 15 Oct 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Road > Long Canyon > Shady Crag

Mini Skirts And Halter Tops 5.11- Trad

With Willy, mind bendingly fun. Stemming, corner switch, roof, this has it all! I stopped at the first anchors and almost lowered because it didn’t seem like there was gear after the first and only bolt and I didn’t want to run out the first stem box. Upon closer inspection I saw the crack takes great gear, so happy I went for it. Very doable with one 70 Ideal gear: 4, 3 (optional 2nd 3 after roof), 5x 2, 6-7x 1, 3x .75, 1x .5, 1x .4, 2x .3, 2x black totem

Mon 14 Oct 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo

Layaway Plan 5.11+ Trad

With Willy. Ate shit big grins :) Fell at the roof, first attempt I tried jamming which doesn’t work, second attempt I tried placing gear, third attempt I got scared at the lip. Fourth time it went clean, no gear and long safe fall potential haha! Lowered back to the corner rest each time. Red c4 and green met protect the roof. Black met after roof.

Expendables 2 5.10+ Trad

With Willy, layback warmup that got the heart pumping

Desire 5.10 Trad

Fun cool down, perfect thigh! 2x 5, 1x 6

Slice and Dice 5.12 Trad

Willy put it up, badass! 7 green, black metolius, red metolius, .4, .3

Sun 13 Oct 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall

Ernie Used to Box 5.10+ Trad

With mango and Kasey, fun wide crack work and very safe. Fell when my foot slipped through a wide four and caught the draw in front of my face with my hand :/ should have calf locked, learning!

Sea of Heartbreak 5.12- Trad

Top rope lap with Bretton after onsight attempt, only one fall at the crux. If I can eek out more rest at the foot pod I think I got it. Watched mango go pinkies down right hand at the thin constriction before the jug while fooot is in pod.

Sea of Heartbreak 5.12- Trad

With mango, many whips were had but I learned lots :) 4x .5 3x .4, 1x .3

Pente 5.11- Trad

Sat 12 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon

Total Ramon 5.11c PG13 Trad, Sport

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Cool down lap with Ryan and Alexa, I remembered my sequence, so fun!

Steel Reserve 5.11c Trad

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Stoked! With Tammy, Jon, Ryan, and Alexa. Felt really chill today with good rests, I think I was well rested and the endurance training is paying off. Accidentally entered the crack a little too high which was terrifying (blind placement) and hard balance, it would be more straightforward and safer to enter lower.

Fire and Brimstone 5.10a Trad

The Watchtower > Watchtower Main

With Tammy, insecure and greasy like the rest of these routes but enjoyable nonetheless

Good June 5.10 Trad

The Cathedral

Warmup with Jon, Tammy, Ryan, Alexa and pets potato and Mona

Wed 09 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab

The 7th Way 5.11a/b Trad

With Tammy, I lead p1,34 and we skipped p5 due to darkness. P1 had a thought provoking but in the end secure move over the lip. P2 goes up and right on the ramp. P3 was spooky runout slab with marginal placements, maybe I took a bad line. P4 was $$$, so safe and so satisfying dancing back and forth thru the dihedrals. Almost fell at the end fighting rope drag, wish I had extended more draws. Ideal rack would be wires, black to green totems

Tue 08 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Division Wall

Teenagers in Heat 5.10c Sport

Warmup 2 with Tammy

The Atheist 5.11b Sport

Greasy jugs low, fell right before the chains at the crux that comes out of nowhere! Fun layback sequence

Les is More 5.10a Sport

Warmup with Tammy

Deep End 5.11a Sport

With Tammy, active rest day :)

Quicklime Girl 5.11a Sport

Not my favorite, mostly searching for jugs in a sea of garbage. Foot slip off a greasy ledge sent my a-flyin’

Sun 06 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Salt Lake Slips

High Fructose Corn Syrup 5.8 Sport

Tried Brent Bargahn’s lead rope solo system, everything worked great except the rope didn’t feed at all haha. Fixe siurana 9.4, time to try a skinnier rope. Fun route and perfect for lrs

Sat 05 Oct 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Island In The Sky > Washer Woman

In Search Of Suds 5.10+ Trad

With Braden, Jacob and David such an adventure! Spectacular summit, makes me want to come back and do monster tower. Took us 3.5 hours to summit at a chill pace. Doubles to 4, triples 2/3 and one optional 5 that was nice to have. I led p 2 and 3, Braden led p1 4/5 and 6. Last pitch is sporty and fun edging, would be safe falls. This also made me want summit drugs… or a cold beer. One can dream.

Wed 02 Oct 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon > The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Total Ramon 5.11c PG13 Trad, Sport

TRS very bouldery before the first bolt, would want a stick clip for sure. Took me like 4-6 laps through the crux to TR red point. Right hand crimp start, get up and switch to right hand on horn, bad left hand gaston at bottom of flare. Right foot high to starting crimp, left foot goes out to low left rail. After first bolt, right hand to side pull, left hand bump to small crimp, right foot in flare, step up to jug.

Grommet 5.11- Sport

TRS good warm up, balancey

Sun 29 Sept 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah

Kor Route 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid

River Road > Dolomite Spire

Drone recovery adventure with Mango was successful. The aid climbing looked… spookig and mango is a barrel chested brontosaurus beast. But following was great! Very impressed by the parties that have done this free, so much crumbling rock that even TR was scary. Much fun was had by our dehydrated little selves, I think 7 hours car to car. And then good ol Oreo milkshakes yummmm

4 x 4 5.11- Trad

Indian Creek > 4X4

With Jacob and Brady, gonna miss those goons had such a great week with them! Great roof sequence, perfect fists for me that were surprisingly secure. The left foot on the lip of the roof was key, as was transitioning to uppercut fist above the roof. Crux for me was lost skin and slippery blood, gloves next time.

Sat 28 Sept 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall

Excuse Station 5.11 Trad

With Jacob and Brady. Fun and pumpy thin hands. Leans much more than it appears. Felt surprisingly secure, greens feel better on than face than in the corner for me I guess. Gear: 9 1s, 5 .75, 1x green metolius, 1x black metolius. 70m rope

Kelley Route 29 aka Three Fools 5.10 Trad

Warmup with Jacob and Brady. Their first creek climbs, they crushed it on lead!

Pente 5.11- Trad

With Jacob and Brady, long and continuous thin hands! Felt very cruisy, lots of pods to rest in and place gear. My crux was the .75 corner up top, it was short but I’m out of practice. No purples, 6 greens, 10 reds, 3 yellows, 1 blue. Rapped with 2 70s

Thu 26 Sept 2024

Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Flaming Rock

Firewater 5.11b Sport

With Jacob and Brady. Heady escape from the hueco and a memorable dance up the patina

Tribal Boundaries 5.10b Sport

Warmup with Jacob and Brady. Incredible thin edging and a surprising slopey top out

Wed 25 Sept 2024

Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks

Sinocranium 5.8 Sport

Steinfell's Dome

Trimul fun with Jacob and Brady! 3 pitches of really fun slab on bomber rock. Brady led p1-2 while Jacob and I followed, I lead 3-4, Jacob summoned. 2 easy raps with a 70. 2 star climbing 4 star experience with friends :)

Beware of Nesting Egos 5.11b PG13 Trad

Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - North

One of my proudest sends, so grateful for Jacob and Brady belaying me. Love this line

Gemini 5.12a Sport

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

With Jacob Brady and our new friend Greg. Watched Greg take a burn and he was nice enough to let me use his draws. Really fun rest in the cave, and being 6’1” was essential so I didn’t have to dyno

Private Idaho 5.9 Trad

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

Warmup with Jacob and Brady, fun corner and pod

Colossus 5.10c Sport

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

With Jacob Brady, belayed by new friend Greg. Really fun movement, steep and slab

Tue 24 Sept 2024

Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock

Wheat Thin 5.7 Trad

Elephant Rock - East

With Jacob and Brady so fun to get on top of this rock :)

Rye Crisp 5.8 Trad

Elephant Rock - East

With Jacob and Brady, fun flake!

Beware of Nesting Egos 5.11b PG13 Trad

Elephant Rock - North

With Brady and Jacob, such a blast! Slipped getting out of crack, and hung to inspect the final crack. Gear for RP: #5, #2 for under flake. #3 above flake, small red metolius nut for before bolt. .3 and black totem for bottom of crack. Medium blue metolius nut for mid upper crack, maybe purple or black totem if you had it. Bolt bolt, .4 for before chains or run it out. 6 runners, 3 QD. Solutions were great. Great continuous climbing with lots of different styles.

Mon 23 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range

Naked Nebula 5.12a Sport

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > White Wave Wall

With Tammy, Jacob and Brady. Fun jug haul, fell in the same spot pulling the final lip twice. There is probably some beta that would make it easier, foot work or heel hook or intermediate hold. Reaching across body to next set of jugs is taxing when pumped

Six to Eleven 5.11a Sport

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock

Second warmup with Jacob, Brady and Tammy. Fun juggy roof sequence with good rests

Emotional Geometry 5.10b Sport

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock

Warmup with Jacob, Brady and Tammy

Final Link 5.9 Trad

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, 75 direct sun made things spicy! Foot slipped at 4th bolt, womp womp

Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 Trad

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, felt much more secure today even in the sun. Still strenuous but fun variety

Crescent Crack 5.7 Trad

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, Jacob led :)

Sun 22 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Pentapitch 5.8 Trad

Pentapitch Area

Fun lap with Jacob and brady so glad they came out to visit!!

My Special Purpose V4 Boulder

Boulders - Little Cottonwood > The Riverside > My Special Purpose Boulder

5ish tries, fun! One move wonder for me, powerful first move that went with bicycle foot beta. Top out was fine once I knew what to grab.

Mikes Slab V3 Boulder

Boulders - Little Cottonwood > The Riverside > Shivers Boulder

2 tries, the crux was getting off the boulder! Ended up down climbing the route and jumping to my pad

Sat 21 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area

Black and White Frosted, John and Mary 5.10c Trad

With Vince, sntarting ti get worm but still doable. Slipped out of a foot jam while resting and took a short ride on a questionable nut, ha!

Equipment Overhang 5.11a Trad

With Vince, felt really secure today even in the sun

Satan's Corner 5.8 Trad

Warmup with Vince

Fri 20 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

Final Link 5.9 Trad

Be OnE wItH tHe PlAnE _/~*~\_ Two laps trs, so fun I’m so grateful I can do this before work. Felt really secure today, katanas crushed it. Crux is probably second bolt. Got to watch some dudes take burns on coffin roof which was fun.

Wed 18 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater 5.10d Trad

Wow granite feels amazing when it’s 50 out haha ❄️ Fun TRS sesh, honestly felt really cruisy today the beta feels like muscle memory now. I think taking a rest day yesterday helped, what a concept. I could just yard off the chicken head with my left hand and throw my right into the bomber paddle.

Sun 15 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Pentapitch Area

Sasquatch 5.9+ Trad

With Nate, fun cool down love this route. Used only nuts and felt very secure

Pudgy Gumbies 5.11d PG13 Trad

With Nate, fell many times through the crux tips section. Once you reach the crack it’s smooth sailing. Placing gear was hard for me, I used lots of brassies but maybe micro cams are the way to go. Got to watch another party send it after me which was cool. Excited to come back to this one, really really fun! Slab shoes are key for this

Endless Torment 5.10b Trad

With Nate, good warm up approach to pudgy

Sat 14 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon

Steel Reserve 5.11c Trad

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Worked out some moves after onsight attempt. The sport pitch below was kinda hard, thin side pulls facing the wrong way very balancy. Would make a great long linkup, as opposed to using the 5.0 chimney.

Steel Reserve 5.11c Trad

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

With Andrew, Nate, and Tammy. Such a fun long line! Fell several times through the crux but worked out a good sequence. Beta: blindly protect with bomber .5, optionally place a bomber .3 just above it. Left hand pinky down jam just below .5, right hand pocket, left hand to positive jug in crack. Placing more gear here is pumpy, best bet is to charge up to the crimp jugs, then get the flake. Place gear from the flake and eek out what rest you can by stemming feet. Can place a black metolius nut higher in the crack, a little tricky but it’s bomber (little too flaring for a cam). Left hand at locker pocket atop flake, reach right hand high to thumb down two finger lock, set feet, match on diagonal jug just up and right, then left hand to locker pinky down jam. Right hand up to locker thumb down jam. Could place gear here, better to keep going to excellent left hand jam. Place something, then fire up through huge crimps to a great rest. Place a black totem and go for the chains. Gear: #3, runners, and triples .2-.5

Fortress 5.11a Trad

The Watchtower > Watchtower Main

With Tammy, Andrew, and Nate. Really fun line, I trotted right at the piton to the next crack. It was unclear if left or right was the way.

Skinny Len Crimps 5.11a Sport

The Cathedral

Fun warmup 2 with Andrew, Nate and Tammy. Stick clipped second bolt, jotted right then back onto the face at second bolt. Really fun delicate edging through 3rd bolt, rest of the climbing was okay.

Good June 5.10 Trad

The Cathedral

Great warmup with Tammy, Andrew, and Nate

Fri 13 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

Crescent Crack Direct Variation 5.9 Trad

With Tammy, welcome to this week’s edition of “you might be a sport climber if…” where Mason gets smoked by a LCC 5.9 after flashing 5.12s at ten sleep last week! That damn sequence through the pin scars was so insecure and pumpy for me, I got to the chicken head but couldn’t move past. Maybe I’m supposed to reach up and use the high flake to layback, dunno. Will be back for more blood

Final Link 5.9 Trad

With Tammy, such a fun slab! Just enough divots, chicken heads and short-ish runouts to keep it 5.9. Danced my way up feeling pretty secure the whole time, then got overconfident on the last push. The final bolt was at face level, and whatever I was standing on crumbled and I took a nice 30 footer past the previous bolt. Safe fall but disappointing, instead of taking the direct line I went to the chicken heads the next attempt and that was way more secure. So fun!!

Tue 10 Sept 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater 5.10d Trad

It’s ya boi Spucky back again with another bongeater beta blast on channel 105.10d, tune out now if ya wanna onsight you naive spucklehead. Before OW get finger lock then right hand jam and place .3 (or .4 or .5?) with left hand to spare that puppy. Put the #4 real high for best pro, almost level with chicken head (specifically at the right hand thumb rest). Then at chicken head, get feet secure and put left hand into shitty two finger lock to get right hand up into the paddle? Very tempting to put left hand in the paddle but it fucks up my sequence. Fist jams felt good, could place a #5 but at that point I don’t think you need it with the bomber 4. First lap was clean, second lap fell twice and bled on the rock a bit, sorry spucksters I was feeling tired today. That’s all from Spucky you ladies and gentlespucks have a wonderful day

Sun 08 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Old Road Crags > Powers Wall

Swedish Penis Enlarger 5.12a Sport

Oh geez Rick that was hard With Willy and Jett, 10/10 effort but fun movement. Two finger pockets were mean to me

Dixie 5.11b Sport

Warmup with Willy and Jett, movement felt tricky to me. Still cleaning up a bit

Sat 07 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon

Wagon Wheel of Death 5.11c Sport

Mondo Beyondo > Downpour Wall

With Willy, super fun and felt easier than the greasy 10d warmup haha

School's Out 5.10c/d Sport

Mondo Beyondo > Downpour Wall

Warmup with Willy

Soul Bossa Nova 5.12b Sport

Old Road Crags > Powers Wall

With Willy, suuuuch a fun long route with great rests throughout. I fell once halfway through (pocket pump) and once right before the chains (crux). Lumbricals felt sore so I’ll save the red point for another time

Sharks with Lazers 5.12a Sport

Old Road Crags > Powers Wall

With Willy, gave it two attempts and fell just before the last bolt both times. Third time I eeked out some rest on the bolt prior and then worked feet high. Skipped the last bolt and accidentally got myself into a bad back step but I made it phew

Achey breaky heart 5.11a Sport

Old Road Crags > Honky Tonk

Warmup with Willy and jet

Fri 06 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla

Casa Grande 5.10d Sport

4. House Wall

Warm up 2 with Willy

Halfway House 5.10b Sport

4. House Wall

Warmup with Willy, he forget his shoes so he used mine! And the grinch’s feet grew three times that day

Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a Sport

5. Drugs and Sex

With Willy, so fun and very doable! Good rests, my crux was off the deck and right before chains

Thu 05 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Devils Tower

El Cracko Diablo 5.8 Trad

South and East Faces

With mango and Willy. A journey through choss and time to the summit. P1 and 2 were pretty good hand cracks, and once at the lower meadows it was unclear how to summit. There was a path that looked solo-able through shrubs and rock piles. Mango ended up leading the rappel route on accident which was a stinky loose chimney, he is our choss-en one! Summit near sunset was beautiful :)

El Matador 5.10d Trad

West Face

I’M MR MEESEEKS! With mango and Willy, such a cool box and it made my legs feel alive. I planned to climb the crack some but ended up stemming pretty much the whole time. It was hard. I placed .2-.75, brought cintuples in .3-.75. So fun

Wed 04 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Devils Tower > West Face

One Way Sunset 5.10c Trad

With mango and Willy, lead the splitter finger crack so fun! The bottom before the crack felt a little British

California Dreaming 5.11b Trad

With mango and Willy, really fun corner! Was able to get it clean but 9/10 effort through the calves. Would be fun to go back and lead it... lichen was a bit loose but protects well. Good warm up for el mat

Tue 03 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Devils Tower > West Face

Tulgey Wood 5.10a Trad

*€^%# HaIL SaTaN #%^€* Great adventure with mango and Willy, prayers to Baal aside. Mango crushed P1, Willy floated P2, and I thrutched my way way through choss to the summit. Hot day, wish I wore hand Jammie’s. Took us like 6 hours, more than we expected but party of 3 and long pitches. 2 70s made the rap easy. Not bison skull to be found but made a small blood sacrifice in the summit register just to be safe.

Mon 02 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Lander Area > Wild Iris > OK Corral > 3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

Mornin' Crow 5.11a Sport

Warmup with Avery and Angela and Molly the doggo. Fingers and toes felt cold but this was fun vertical edging

Drinking Dry Clouds 5.12c Sport

With Avery and Angela. Sooooo close, clipped the third bolt and threw for the 3 finger jug but my right fingers slipped out mid throw :( fingers were feeling tweaky and not worth the injury risk. Will 100% go next visit with fresh fingers

Sun 01 Sept 2024

Wyoming > Lander Area > Wild Iris > OK Corral

Dirty Sally 5.10b Sport

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

Warmup with Sean

Poker Face Alice 5.12b Sport

1. Left Side (Lunarscape, Tribal War, Poker-Face, Lone Pilgrim) > 3. Poker Face Alice

With Avery. Fingers were strained from previous climb but worked out some beta. Right foot heel toe cam in crack right hand in pocket, reach left hand to right side of jug. Clip. Right hand to left side of jug, work feet up and throw for next jug, clip.

Drinking Dry Clouds 5.12c Sport

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

With Sean. Really fun movement, felt like I could get it but had to stop because fingers started hurting from pockets. Beta: left hand under king two finger pocket, right hand under king. Left foot on high left bench, right foot on darker platform. Dead point right hand to pocket with front two fingers. Clip. Work feet up, left hand to huge three finger pocket a foot above the bolt

Wrong End of a Gun 5.11c Sport

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

Warm up with Sean. Fell on the bouldery start, afterwards we both noticed a left crimp above and left of bolt that might help. 5.10 after that

Sat 31 Aug 2024

Wyoming > Lander Area > Wild Iris

The Solace of Bolted Faces 5.12a Sport

OK Corral > 3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

With Sean and Avery. Fun vertical thin edges with just enough pockets and a bomber mono :) pumped out on my first go, made a mistake on my second, then cruised through it on my third. Tricky feet make all the difference, great evening temps

Nine Horse Johnson 5.11d Sport

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

With Sean and Avery. 2 tries, first try I got to the lip but couldn’t move past the shallow pockets. After watching Sean and deciding the stem was on, the lip moves felt great really fun!

Tomahawk Slam 5.12a Sport

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

With Sean and Avery, had to aid through the crux shallow two finger pocket. Fun climb with a crack at the bottom

Easy Ridin' 5.10d Sport

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

Warmup with Sean and Avery

Tue 27 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater 5.10d Trad

TRS 5ish laps through the crux, working out beta and gear. Beta: get .3 C4 in just below the offwidth, left hand up to 3 finger lock at base of OW, left foot jam right foot smear on raised grain and knee bar onto the crack edge. Place #4 with right hand, option to shake out, then commit to layback. Layback until left hand can crimp chicken head, jam left foot and knee bar or smear right. Key hold: get right hand into the bottom part of the 2 flakes, amazing full cupped paddle hand. Adjust feet (get a foot at base of OW I think?) and reeeach left arm up to fist jam, then right hand fist jam working feet up. Could place a #5 here but it would be strenuous, safe falls without. From fist jams somehow start layback on the top left edge of the crack again (left foot chicken head or jam then eventually smear, right foot smear). Palms are very sweaty on slopers at this point, felt desperate each time I did it, beached whale top out. Wear pants to save your knees, don’t really need gloves. Definitely do it in cold weather or the shade, hand sweat would kick you off the polished slopers (left at 10AM, still in shade except for top out). Really fun and good exercise.

Fri 23 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Plumb Line Gully

Plumb Line 5.10a Trad, TR

Top rope solo, my onsight felt shaky a few days ago so I decided to come back and do some laps. Feels really solid now, so much fun I just wish it were 3x as long! 5 laps total, 0.4 directional. Nice slung tree to safely access the anchors. Rock felt extra grippy today, cooler temps and high winds. Much better than the post rain humidity of last time.

Thu 22 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon

Dehumanized 5.11a/b Trad, Sport

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

With Nate, fun cool down. Lots of slopers and some good jams, very different from the left side of the wall.

Condor 5.12a Sport

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Fun challenge with Avery, nice to have the first bolt clipped bad fall potential. Gave the dynamic beta several attempts but I either missed the hold or my right foot popped once I latched it. Decided to try a static line I saw and it worked first go! Right hand to small 3 finger rail, work the feet up on slab (sticky shoes help), then float the left hand to the jug. The rest of it is easy climbing, one move wonder.

Uncensored Society 5.10b Sport

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Good warm up with Tammy and Nate

Devil Tree 5.10b Trad

The Cathedral

Warmup with Tammy and Grace. Felt more strenuous than expected, lots of fun stemming and decent jams, bad flakes make the gear tricky.

Mon 19 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Hook 5.8 R Trad

Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

Shane lead p3 and I lead p4. Badass! I got turned away by the hook direct, took a couple falls above the first bolt. Gotta hone my slab skills and come back to it

Pentapitch 5.8 Trad

Pentapitch Area

Epic adventure times with the one the only Shane Scoggins. Last pitch was work

Schoolroom 5.6 Trad

Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

With Shane, fun adventure climbing. We got off route and only did the first two pitches, ended up on the hook to finish things up. Rap requires an 80, oops. 70 got stuck rapping off a tree, thankfully a kind man got our rope out of a construction so we didn’t have to do any rope solo shenanigans to get it

Pentapass 5.7 Trad

Pentapitch Area

With Shane Scoggins, legendary crusher

Sasquatch 5.9+ Trad

Pentapitch Area

With Scoggins, such a fucking blast. Want to do this every day

Sun 18 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon

The Milkmaid 5.11b Sport

Bingo Baby

Two laps on this, made a mistake right before the chains on my first lap. Second lap is started raining, ugh. Very much within my wheelhouse and super fun, good warmup for next time.

Gordon's Linkup 5.12a Sport

Bingo Baby

With Reuben and Jacob. Feels like it could go on a fresh day, worked out the beta. Key: left foot on chip to the left of first bolt while right hand is on the first hold of the lip. Get side pull on glued hold, match with right hand on top crimp, throw for jug with feet in cave, get right hand jug, left hand good crimp, right hand rail, left hand glory horn. Clip and rest

Cosmic Imperative 5.11c Sport

Bingo Baby

With Jacob, such a fun route! Felt like a perfect repeat, very validating. Had energy to spare

Caress of Steel 5.10a Sport

The Membrane

Warmup with Jacob and Reuben

Sat 17 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Plumb Line Gully

Boomerang 5.10a Trad

With Nate, really fun line that challenged my weaknesses (slanting crack and lie back). Pulled hard for 10a! Gear beta for next time: 3x .3, 3x .4, 1x black totem, 1x 3, 1 nut at the top. Really can’t have enough .3

Plumb Line 5.10a Trad, TR

With Nate, spooky crux move but protects well. I need to stop breaking in new shoes on slab

Sun 11 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Forgotten Trails

The Bleaker 5.11c Sport

With Reuben, so fun!! Medium length pump fest on vertical pocket jugs with a balancey crux around bolt 3. Fell at the crux on my first go, and still felt insecure on the second go but if you trust the feet they stick.

Long Shadows 5.12a Sport

With Reuben, was feeling great on the first half through the roof and loved how it flowed. Thought I would get it clean but then I got stumped on the seemingly featureless face of the second half, probably hung like 6 times. I think it’s all there and doable, finding the holds without chalk marks was a challenge though. The rock quality on the upper arete didn’t inspire confidence so not sure if I’ll be back on this again but besides that it’s a really cool line.

Boy Wonder 5.10b Sport

Warmup with Reuben

Sat 10 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Minions of Chaos Area

Minions of Chaos 5.10+ Trad

With Tammy, I lead pitches 2 and 4. I love this gulch! Pitch 2 was amazing, would love to come back and do more routes on that wall. Pitch 4 was fun but I must have climbed it wrong because it felt awkward, maybe I got sucked into the crack too much and should have used the face more. Sun: Sun enveloped the west wall around 10AM and was warm, maybe 80. Skinny puppy wall on the east side remained shady til we left around noon. Pro: didn’t use the #4, didn’t need nuts. Doubled .4-2, single .3 and 3, 10 draws

Sun 04 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Black Magic

Stay on the Porch 5.11d Sport

With Reuben, aided through the bottom on my first attempt (felt impossible trying to go straight up through the bolts), rest of it felt okay with the right sequence. Watched Reuben breeze through the bottom (left hand crimp, right hand two pad undercling and get high feet to reach better holds above) and got excited to try again. On my second attempt I had a few false starts working on my crux and once I got it the rest of it was a breeze. Good no hands stemming rest before the steep. Got it clean but would like to come back and do the intro sequence more confidently, it’s a good one to improve footwork.

Kronk 5.11b Sport

With Reuben, fell during the layback on my first go and worked through it a little insecurely on my next attempt. Good warmup and good one to work on my layback skills, need more confidence in that area.

Sat 03 Aug 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Division Wall

Struggling Man 5.12a Sport

Jacob lead, I followed and could not figure out the crux sequence at the top. Stout right hand 3 finger drag to a bad left hand to an okay right hand, sustained

Kiddie Pool 5.10d Sport

With Jacob and Ethan, burnt to hell on this one too but boy is it fun, will definitely be coming back to this! Steep jugs to sudden thin vertical edging

Baghdad 5.11b Sport

With Jacob Russ and Ethan, I was burnt to hell but struggled up this. Will get it clean during warmup next time

Division 5.11d Sport

With Jacob, Russ, and Ethan. 3 laps, went from feeling impossible to really close! Last try one hang at the crux. Found a way to layback to get higher feet before going for the crimp, so I think next time it’ll go

Pocket Change 5.11a Sport

Warm up with Jacob and Russ, interesting moves on the dihedral at the top

Les is More 5.10a Sport

Warmup with Jacob

Sun 28 Jul 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Sundial

Eleventh Hour 5.8 Trad

Fun outing with Jaime! Pitch 3 was cash money, fun corner stemming and low angle twin cracks through a face. Used nuts and .3-2 with doubles in .4-.75 and that felt cozy. Saw 2 moose!

Sat 27 Jul 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Bingo Baby

Protozoa 5.11c Sport

2 tries, felt impossible on first go then I watched Reuben climb it (stay left) and then it went. Learning! Also helps to have hung draws

Cosmic Imperative 5.11c Sport

2 tries, almost on sighted but got pumped feet before the chains. Second go I took better rests

The Beckoning Call 5.12a Sport

“Warmup” with Reuben, 3 hangs

Sun 21 Jul 2024

Utah > Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Hayden Peak > Iron Hayden Wall

Sun & Steel 5.11a/b Trad, Alpine

With Chase, I led odd pitches. Pitch 3 and 4 were really fun, I liked this climb better than up the irons. I am too young to understand any of these Iron Maiden references anyways

Up the Irons 5.11c Trad, Alpine

With Chase, I led p1 and 2. Really fun climbing, we linked p3 and 4 and I would do it that way again. Thought the crux was the face of p4, very well protected throughout and felt like I could have led it clean. We tried skipping the p4 rap station and were left hanging 10-15 feet above the p3 rap station at the end of our 70, would have been faster (and safer) not to skip it.

Sun 07 Jul 2024

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall

Slimy Slit (aka Slippery Slit) 5.10b TR

Trs two laps. Pulled hard on good crimps with feet smears down low, ok crimps and feet through the middle, fun cutout side pull helps get you over the lip where you join with camel. Difficulty felt about the same as camel. Hot out today woof

Sat 06 Jul 2024

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall

Camel 5.10b/c Sport, TR

Trs fitness laps on camel. Second bolt beta: right hand on leftmost thin edge, get right foot up to good rail left of bolt, stand up to hidden edge at left side of blob. Tick marks help. Crimps all feel good, it’s just a matter of finding them and your feet

Wed 19 Jun 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Wasatch Alpine Areas > Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo

South Ridge Easy 5th Trad, Alpine

With Jaime and Sage. Such a fun outing! Kept it at casual conversation pace and enjoyed the ridge all the way up. We were all ailing in some form or another so we took lots of breaks haha. Many a snowball met it's end against stone and skin today. Took us 5 hours I think

Tue 18 Jun 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Mount Olympus > South Summit

Geurt's Ridge 5.5 Trad

The ridge was quite fun, and the hike was a solid workout. 3:45 car to car, booked it on the hike and slowly enjoyed myself on the ridge. There’s a little bit of 5th class at the end, I searched out more along the way but honestly I bet you could avoid most of it. Got a little confused on down climb 2, I went too far down the spire and the climbing was harder, I think if you go 15 feet skiers right of the rappel it’s easier and shorter. Would bring a clif bar next time. 1 liter water 50* out

Mon 17 Jun 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > The Membrane

License To Thrill 5.11c Sport

With Tammy. Gave it an honest onsight burn but fell pretty early. Worked out the moves, crux felt low to me with all the polished holds and feet. Better rests below and above the roof. Really fun, think I’ll get it next time! Stick clip is a must for first bolt

26 5.12a Sport

With Tammy, yay first 5.12! This is really just a boulder problem with bolts but I’ll take it lol. Felt solid with the right beta

Insane in the Brain 5.11b Sport

With tammy. Didn’t feel very warm but I remembered my sequence and got it first try! Jugs are all there, felt secure. I clipped the third bolt, down climbed to ledge and rested, then went

Reverse Osmosis 5.11b Sport

With Tammy. Felt easy on the fingers and technical. I pulled hard on crimps on the roof but I think there was a better foot sequence. Good warm up.

Butterfingers 5.9 Sport

Warm up with Sean and tammy

Sun 16 Jun 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > The Membrane

Drop Zone 5.10a Sport

Warm up with Sean and Tammy

Insane in the Brain 5.11b Sport

With sean and Tammy. Had a great flow and used all the right jugs. Pumped out at the lip slapping around for anything, and then identified the big right hand pocket to the lower right of the bolt while hanging. Will get it clean next time, but we had to go

Insane in The Membrane 5.10b Sport

With Sean and Tammy, second go I used the big ledge to rest and followed a good sequence

Insane in The Membrane 5.10b Sport

With Sean and Tammy, onsight I pumped out and also used some bad holds

Steel Monkey 5.10d Sport

Warm up 2 with Sean and Tammy

26 5.12a Sport

With Sean and Tammy, a one move wonder and I think it could go with right beta. Pumpy 3rd clip and throw to left hand jug off of right hand 3 finger drag

Riptide 5.11a Sport

With Sean and Tammy. Got desperately pumped by the end and eeked out strength on a marginal rest. Really fun and balanced, cool undercling sequence. A challenging 11a for me

Mon 10 Jun 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Mount Olympus > The West Slabs

The West Slabs 5.5 Trad

Fun romp with Jaime! Hot hiking up but the couloir was shaded. A bit slippery without spikes but a good stick got me up and saved us when Jaime took the butt slide of her life haha. The climbing was so fun and casual, cracks and chicken heads and only a little slab, approachies were the move. Such a fun time thanks Jaime!

Sun 09 Jun 2024

Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Road

Great Pacific Garbage Patch 5.11c Sport

Maple Corridor > West Wall

Attempt 2 with mango, felt way smoother but still pumped out in the greasy cave. Would go clean with a little more endurance

Great Pacific Garbage Patch 5.11c Sport

Maple Corridor > West Wall

With mango. Harder yes please. Several falls

Spoils of War 5.11b Sport

Maple Corridor > West Wall

With mango. Pump hard short steep Mason likey. 2 falls methinks

The Tiger's Revenge 5.10d Sport

Bridge Area

With mango. Very different from its neighbor, probably got more pumped hauling on steep jugs on this one

Taking the Bullet 5.11a Sport

Bridge Area

With mango. Really fun balancey movement featuring side pulls and big toe pain. Right before the chains I got cocky and yarded on a sloper that I slipped off of wah wah. Probably my favorite climb of the day!

Crime Scene 5.10+ Sport

Bridge Area

Warmup 2 with mango, steep at the top!

Flak Jacket 5.10a Sport

Bridge Area

Warm up with mango

Sat 08 Jun 2024

Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon

Through A Brown Darkly 5.10c Sport

Maple Canyon Road > Box Canyon > EFS Wall

Warm down with mango, really fun monkey bar movement through the roof. I fell at the chains, I was tired and did not expect there to be a crux at the end so I haphazardly went for it and ate shit. Very fun and varied route, would make for a good warm up!

Maple Pickles 5.11a/b Sport

Maple Canyon Road > Box Canyon > Ammo Dump Wall

With mango. Two attempts and I fell in the same spot both times. After my second fall I noticed a jug in the seam that seemed like the best way to get through the crux. Second attempt felt smoother overall. Mango gave me his secret superpower ingredient on the second go, I’ll take two next time

Streak 5.11b Sport

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

With mango, fell just before lip. This one felt more sustained then heathen, or maybe just fewer rests. It was getting hot and I was tired so I didn’t give it another go.

Heathen 5.11b Sport

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

With mango. Gave it an onsight burn and hung at both cruxes, short challenging sequences and I’m still learning to read the rock. Got it clean on second attempt, desperate second crux! Suns out collars up?

Love Beads 5.10d Sport

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

Oooooowwweeee them some mighty fine love beads. This one felt as hard as the 10a to me ha, I think it was just more obvious where to put my hands and feet. With mango

Kingpin 5.10a Sport

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

Warmup with mango and lizard buddy

Sun 02 Jun 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress

The Man Who Knew Too Little 5.12- Trad

Woof this was a lesson in body friction. Really fun trying it and then watching mango style it, I think I learned a thing or two but have a long way to go

The Wave 5.10+ Trad

Gave it a clean TR burn after my onsight attempt and my learnings felt good

Sat 01 Jun 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek

Variety Pack 5.11+ Trad

4X4

This thing is crazy long and so fun. I fell thrice on TR I think, really locker thin fingers with a handful of stemmy rests. Placing gear would be hard. Mango valiantly put it up even though he was tired. Favorite route of the day, can’t wait to lead it eventually

Handbrake 5.10- Trad

4X4

With mango and Luke. My pet brick Brian was the perfect size for the offwidth at the top. Brian is still in training so I backed him up with a #4 but one day he’ll protect cruxes all on his own!

Lift Kit (Right Side of Crag) 5.11 Trad

4X4

With mango, wes, Maria, and Luke. Really fun corner out of the sun, slipped and got a proper rock rash cuz I arrogantly went shirtless. And I found a pet brick to keep meatloaf the cat company

The Wave 5.10+ Trad

Supercrack Buttress

With mango. .3, 2 .4, 4 .5, 4 .75, 4x 1, 1x 2 This is a really fun varied route and I thought it was more like 5.11 for the creek. Worked a lot of my weaknesses and think I could send it fresh next time. Purples after crux 1 I fell and crux 2 I fell but found my sequence and how to use my inside hand

Sun 26 May 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > La Sal Mountains > Lower Dakota Crag

Yeyo 5.11b Sport

07 - Ganja Wall

With mango, my favorite route of the day. Really fun easy traverse is interupted by a delicate slab move. I felt like I was about to onsight but then the “jug” crimp broke halfway through the crux RIP. Feels a touch harder now, but the feet are still there. Amazing position

Pap Smear 5.10b Sport

03 - Exam Wall

With mango, pretty challenging start for a 10

Prostate Exam 5.11 Trad

03 - Exam Wall

With mango, the hand traverse really pumped me out trying to place gear (tight red and purple), between this and Jupiter crack it’s something I definitely need to work on! Fell several times on the hand traverse, then once turning the lip. Lip move felt ok once I figured out my beta. Left hand left lip, right high black crimp, work feet up to right side of horizontal crack, press hard into left palm and feet, get right foot over lip, press until left foot is over lip.

Turn Your Head and Cough 5.11b Sport

03 - Exam Wall

With Mango, fun frumpy moves up an arete. Challenging but the easiest 11 we did all day

Lichen the Exam 5.10 Sport

03 - Exam Wall

Warmup with mango, really fun stem box at the top!

Sat 25 May 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah

Y-Crack Simulator 5.9 Trad

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Y-Crack Simulator Crag

Warmup with mango and Wes. Really cool cave behind this with terrified 5.13 in it

The Turner Prize Tower 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > Entrance Corridor

With mango, fun view with birds whizzing by. Petroglyphs were nuts and they’re were a lot of them. Goat spewing rainbow was my favorite

Unnamed 5.11 AKA Entrance Exam 5.11 Trad

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > Entrance Corridor

With mango and Wes, really fun varied climbing with interesting pumpy hands at the end. I fell on my first go at the sandy chock stone before the chains, and after dialing in beta got it on a second lap. Got me breathing

Washed Up V4 Boulder

River Road > Big Bend Bouldering Area > The Wash Boulder

Took me like 10 tries, at the end got to show off my beta to two nice guys from Provo and CO. Found a hand sequence and kept my left heel on the bottom of the rail the whole time. Sharp lip felt good as I desperately threw from the crimp with my left hand. Mantle felt solid, the rail is good feet and the varnish has good friction for the mantle.

Fri 24 May 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches National Park > Park Avenue > West > Cleopatras Rock (South West) > Upper Tier

Nefertiti 5.9 C2 Trad, Aid

With mango, very adventurous and an interesting introduction to aid climbing. Cams, bolts, pitons, and hooks oh my! We didn’t have a stick clip or a hammer so we brought a marshmallow stick and a hatchet. Mangos a beast.

Tue 14 May 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Tick Fever 5.11a Trad

Wheeler-Newsome Wall

With Adam, such a fun and varied route! I fell at le crux trying to get onto the .3 crack slab. I think with a proper no hands chimney rest I could get it clean. Ideal rack would be doubles of .2-1 and optional nuts

Enter the Dragon 5.11- Trad

Dragon Arch

With Adam, I lead the middle pitch. Such an interesting route, lots of slab, layback, crack, and sport all in one package. I heart breakingly fell right before the chains trying to mantle up off the flake, afterwards I realized there is a jug right hand flake with good feet to the right. Next time! The 3rd pitch was really hard for me, I was yarding with everything I had on the layback crimps and barely got it clean on TR. safely bolted though.

Sun 12 May 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Boulders - Little Cottonwood

Twisted V4 Boulder

Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder

Spent an hour working this, some strong guys from Boise hopped on too and it was fun to watch them. Can consistently swing up to the crimp, haven’t successfully moved my left hand to the bad rail crimp yet. Tried keeping the feet low but kept barn dooring, and trying to twist the right foot onto the high knob was close but I slipped off there too. I think with twisted right foot and maybe getting the left foot onto the opposing face I could secure that crimp then bump the right hand right from that position. Fun problem, I’ll be back with fresh fingers!

Roundroom Arete V3 Boulder

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > The Round Room Boulder

The Round Room V6- Boulder

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > The Round Room Boulder

Spent the better part of an hour on this and couldn’t make much progress. Farthest I got: loads of weight on right palm, left thumb sprag on upside down chip, right foot on flake and left foot on knob. Lots of tension in this position, left hand couldn’t reach the rail. Another technique was left foot on flake and right foot on low micro rail, but that felt farther away and I couldn’t move out of that position. Right hand had the meat of my thumb on the triangular edge and the rest of the hand on slopiness.

Red Stain V4 Boulder

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > Red Patina Boulder

Couldn’t figure out how to get off the ground, really hard to keep my feet on. From the crimp rail it goes, but hard to bump the right hand up there. I’ll be back for blood :)

Surprise Ending V3 Boulder

Gate Boulders > Gate Boulder

Exciting topout but very secure! It really helped to go look at the top before attempting to see what the options were (2.5 chicken heads). Definitely wouldn’t want to fall into the tree from there, 2 pads. Felt way way easier than standard overhang

Standard Overhang V3 Boulder

Gate Boulders > The Standard Overhang Boulder

Felt so gooooood! Took me like 8 tries to dial in the beta, felt very secure by the end :) 2 pads My beta: drive through right foot to good rail, switch feet and right foot out to rail on other route. Huck left hand to sloper with great hidden dish on left side (just right of chalked stone). Get right foot to crystal just right of starting left hand. Throw to the lip - straight up is bad and I slid off over and over again. Throw to the right and tap around to find good crystals that help you get left foot up to dish and stand up!

East Arete V0 Boulder

Gate Boulders > The Standard Overhang Boulder

Sat 11 May 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Bongeater Buttress

Bongeater 5.10d Trad

With Adam and David. After 5 whips I had to aid thru the finish and I was not happy :( totally thought it had onsight potential but the lay backing proved to be really pumpy for me (polished and slopey in the middle). New week night project! I think I would try getting the right foot into the constriction at the bottom of the offwidth while my left hand is locked on the chicken head and right hand is lay backing, then stand up and grab the pinch to hold me into the crack. Could place a 4 (maybe 5?) here. Also RIP Z4 0.3, the neck bent after the third whip and the lobes are all fucked up

Sat 04 May 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > The Optimator

Hayutake [direct start] 5.11- Trad

With Mango, Alley, Gregor, and Wilson. Fun warm up with a secure try hard start, fun to place the micro cams

Annunaki 5.11+ Trad

With Mango, Alley, Gregor, and Wilson. Fun onsight burn, fell trying to move off the second chick stone to the hand jam jug, pumped. Fell again trying to figure out the finger locks at the anchors, but dialed in a good sequence. With a little endurance I can definitely bag this next time!

Fri 03 May 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Sparks Wall

Slings and Arrows 5.11b Trad

With Alley, movement a little technical, .4-1 emphasis green. Fun but wouldn’t necessarily repeat, though I was tired so maybe that contributed. Fun secure .5 out of the offeidth at the end

Flat Line 5.10c Trad

With mango, alley, and Gregor. Fun warm up with a little pump towards the top

Go Sparky Go 5.11 Trad

With mango alley and Gregor, really fun challenge at the end protected well by .5! Off width offers a nice rest. I fell on my onsight burn, then realized I needed to grab the arete and repeated. On the repeat I jumped to the arete too early and had to do a wide arm pull up to get my leg up, desperate!

Jupiter Crack 5.11 Trad

With mango, alley, and Gregor. Such a beautiful route it really does look like Jupiter. I struggled with bad technique on the off width. Couldn’t get my leg in to rest like I wanted and my right arm fell asleep from chicken winging onto my artery. In the future, it is easiest to move by feet on the face and hanging on the juggy rail, then rest and place gear by sticking leg into off width ideally all the way to the crotch.

Thu 02 May 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Green Adjective Gully

Wheels on Fire 5.9 Trad

With Adam, fun line up the corner. Foot popped on the undercling traverse and I went for a short unexpected ride!

Gordon's Direct 5.11b R Trad, TR

With Adam, really fun line up the seam. The gear is safe it’s just pumpy placing it, G rated. I pumped out at the bolt and hung before doing the finishing sequence, so frustrating but I loved the route and am excited to revisit it.

The Green Adjective 5.9+ Trad

With Adam, just did the first pitch. Brand new TC pros killed the soles of my feet and didn’t feel very secure smearing but got through it.

Tue 30 Apr 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Division Wall

Division 5.11d Sport

With Matei. Took an onsight burn and fell at the third bolt, worked my way up to the crux and couldn’t pull it, didn’t see the key left hand crimp. After Matei crushed it I took a TR lap and the crux felt ok, but what comes after it is pumpy! I think I’d be able to do this with more endurance and more intelligence about finding feet to get some rest before the crux.

Deep End 5.11a Sport

With Mantei, really fun crimping with good jugs to rest on throughout. Being on the arete is cool. No distinct crux for me, got a good little pump though

Les is More 5.10a Sport

With Mantei, fun warmup with opportunities for hand jams and chimney rests at the top, yes please!

Wed 24 Apr 2024

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area

Equipment Overhang 5.11a Trad

With Adam, yet another fun corner with a surprisingly secure roof sequence at the top, there are jugs in the crack! I hung at the first bolt because I got my hand sequence confused and pumped myself out. I also got pumped right after the roof and knee locked to give myself rest! I will be definitely be back to do it clean.

Black and White Frosted, John and Mary 5.10c Trad

With Adam, fun corner stemming that had my left calf pumped at the top! Good rests the whole way, the start was a little heady but doable

Satan's Corner 5.8 Trad

With Adam, we did it as one pitch super fun exposure and jamming!

Sun 21 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah

Castles Made of Sand (Fall in the Sea Eventually) 5.10b Sport

River Road > Take-Out Beach > The Marquee

With Jacob and Braden. Sandy and delicate but a fun line

Encore 5.11a Sport

River Road > Take-Out Beach > The Cinema

With Jacob and Braden. Really fun line up the arete, I hung because I didn’t see the three finger pocket below the flake after the 3rd arete bolt. After that it went smoothly, really fun grippy coarse rock

Static Cling 5.11- Trad

Potash Road > Wall Street

With Braden and Jacob. Really fun route, more technical than what we’ve been doing, lots of good constructions for the fingers. Greasy as hell but the corner was out of the warm sun thankfully. Felt smooth and found my rests well, but got pumped and had to hang at the crux mantling past the roof. I probably could have rested a little longer below the roof, I watched Braden put his right foot on the wall and press his body into the right facing mini dihedral to rest below the roof. Gear was uninspiring to me so I ended up backing up most pieces.

Sat 20 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah

Gunsmoke 5.11a Trad

Potash Road > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress

With Jacob and Braden, fun pitch! There’s a lot to do in this area would love to come back and spend a proper day here, the Prius could make it ;) fun long handcrack, and tricky thin corner at the top. Good finger locks are there just gotta find them. We got to the ground with a single 75m

Lonely Vigil 5.10 Trad

River Road > Lighthouse Tower

With Braden and Jacob, way fun! My first desert tower, great views of big bend and the rest of the canyons on the summit. The stem bow was really fun, I got to lead it and after plugging too many cams in the chimney I stepped out to realize that the stem box is super secure and has quite a few jugs. It was nice to stay in the shade most of the route. One 70 got us to the ground in two raps.

Fri 19 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Road > Day Canyon > Day Canyon Cragging Routes

Pocket Rocket 5.10c Sport

With Braden and Jacob, fell at the overhang. Felt pretty tired so took it easy the rest of the day as belay bitch

Sun 14 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Fringe Walls

Rasta Safari 5.11 Trad

With Mango and Tyler. Today I listened to my body and followed instead of lead while tired haha. The purple section was really fun and would be a good challenge on lead, another pumpy corner that I need to learn to take rest in (and not lie back!)

Bitch 5.11 Trad

With Mango and Tyler. I thought I’d be able to make this one clean but alas I’ll have to come back. Great practice on greens, I just kept bumping my right lock and right foot jam up and got pumped, gotta learn how to take rest and maybe bring some comfier shoes next time for the poor toesies

Itch 5.10+ Trad

Fun sequence up a corner, with Mango and Tyler

Switch 5.10+ Trad

With Mango and Tyler. Really fun route, the switch wasn’t so bad, I think getting the high foot was probably the trickiest part

Mentor 5.12a Sport

With Mango and Tyler. This was a really cool line up a knife edge arete, the bottom part felt doable but the crux at the top required footwork that I couldn’t figure out. It was fun watching mango take laps on it and learning

White Pattie 5.10+ Trad

With Manga and Tyler. Really fun .75 practice in a corner that made it easy to rest, loved it and it used the whole 70m

Sat 13 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Habitado

El Hombre Habitado 5.12- Trad

Followed on TR after Mango lead. Was a cool route and relatively soft for a 12, I fell once in the greens section because of a bad feet sequence. The offset makes it challenging and in order to stay vertical and not overhanging you have to keep driving that right foot in. Very fun, goes through a range of sizes and I think would be doable, shorty. The bat shit at the top was nasty, and clipping the anchor is kinda airy

Shayna's First Big Wall 5.11+ Trad

With Mango and Brittany, climb 4. Moved pretty well through the bottom and then fell a couple times in the greens section at the top. Really fun movement, would love to come back and nail it once I have more endurance on greens. Baggy ring locks with a few tight hands.

Prickly Pear 5.10 Trad

With Mango and Brittany, third climb of the day. I fell at the crux, I was really hoping to get it clean but the feet were slippery and insecure. Very sequency locks but doable. The rest of it was fun, a memorable purple section

Unnamed 5.10 5.10 Trad

With Mango and Brittany and friends, fun secure tight hands, only took ones I think

Unnamed 5.10 5.10 Trad

With Mango and Brittany, our first climb of the day. Fun warmup

Esta Dia Bonita 5.11 Trad

With Mango and friends. I fell and aided my way up this, would love to come back and do it clean one day. It’s longggg. Mostly ones with a shirt section of greens at the top, a couple 2s at the bulges. It was my last climb of the day and I was stoked to get on it but in retrospect I was way too tired ha. Mango was a good sport belaying me though. The rock on the face is friable and will fall apart if you yard on it, belayer should wear a helmet.

Sun 07 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek

Generic Crack 5.10- Trad

Donnelly Canyon

With Kristie, Gaar and Mango. The flared wideness of this one makes it very physical and wasn’t my favorite but goood practice in an awkward hand crack

3 Strikes You're Out 5.11 Trad

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

After a TR it felt pretty good so I came back at the end of the day and got it! I was rather pumped at the top but the technique felt pretty good. With Kristie and Gaar. 2x .75 at start, black metolius, 7x 1s

Swedin-Ringle 5.12- Trad

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Took a TR burn after Gaar put it up, fell several times but it was really fun and would love to do it one day

The Moon Also Rises (Finger Lickin' Good var.) 5.11- Trad

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Followed after mango lead, fun calf and knee locks, the thin hands was strenuous for me

Sat 06 Apr 2024

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface

Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) 5.11- Trad

Warm up with Kristie. Afterwards I lead a 5.10 to the left that isn’t on MP or the guide

Desert Shield 5.12 Trad

Garr lead and I aided and hangdogged up on top rope. The fingers were pumpy but felt like one day they could go, the chimney mystified me and I had to pull through on the draw

Mantel Illness 5.11b Trad

With Kristie, Garr put it up. The crux is sporty but feels like it could work if I properly rested at the ledge

Wavy Gravy 5.10 Trad

With Kristie, fun juggy steep hands, should have brought more 2s than 3s

Fertile Crescent 5.9 Trad

With Kristie, this was work until I realized I could chimney!

Wed 27 Mar 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > The Fox Area

The Fox 5.10+ Trad

With Grace, Eden, and Juliana (Grace followed). I was so stoked to finally get on this one and it lived up to expectations! I felt secure on every size, oddly the wide part felt the best and unsurprisingly the thin hands were my weakest point. I fell in the transition to the fists section, I was desperately trying to kick my left foot up onto the platform and my upper fist slid out of a wide spot. I avoided stacking but that might have been a good place for hand stacks. I was definitely pumped too and need to work on that sweet sweet endurance. Lots of good rests though and felt well equipped with doubles of .4 - 4 and singles of 5-6, three QuickDraws. Maybe two 5s and three 4s would have been nice but I was fine without it. Would tape my wrists and maybe left ankle next time to avoid rock rash. Will definitely be back, this was great fun and the perfect challenge for where I’m at in my training. Met some nice folks visiting from Calgary who crushed it after me.

Tue 26 Mar 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall

Epinephrine 5.9 Trad

I had a nice detailed tick but it got deleted :( Amazing day with Grace, the chimney felt much more solid this time and we had a blast! In classic style I pooped in a bag after the chimney, but didn't hijack my partner's nalgene this time (lol sorry Evan). The black totem went in the stupid death flake on the last chimney pitch again because I can't handle runouts apparently.

Mon 25 Mar 2024

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Canyon > Rose Tower

Olive Oil 5.7 Trad

Led the whole thang and Juliana followed. Grace and Eden trailed us as a separate party. Super fun felt a lot more dialed than last year and the last wide pitch felt way more secure. Super fun! Evan messaged me at the top coincidentally, miss that guy.

Wed 20 Mar 2024

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall

Only Way To Fly 5.10c Sport, TR

Came back with grace and it felt really easy today haha! Good beta and good sleep go a long way. 2 laps 2 flashes

Sun 17 Mar 2024

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Cracked Wall

Only Way To Fly 5.10c Sport, TR

2 laps with grace. Took me a sec to remember the beta

Sun 10 Mar 2024

California > Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP > Danland

Morgana 5.9 A0 Sport, Aid

Squirrel Creek > Left Side

Tried leading this one free and was immediately spit off when the climbing got steep and smooth haha. Made one move with a high right foot onto the ledge, left on a gaston of a seam, and as I stood up the undercling helped which was cool. Had to aid on QuickDraws through the rest of it but fun challenge

Lazy Boy Ledge 5.6 Trad

Golden Arches

The approach up the gully was super dirty and had lots of big loose rocks. We trundled one the size of a microwave that was super loose. Wouldn’t recommend approaching just to do this route, it’s very short but a nice crack with a good view up rope. Other routes in this area looked interesting but I was tired

Foggy Bottom 5.9 Trad

Race Crack Area

Shane rocked this one on lead, crack was wet and grassy which made it spicy. 2 bolts and 2 fixed micro nuts.

Toll Booth 5.10c Sport

Knob Hill

This is not the exact route Shane and I did, it doesn’t appear to be on MP or in the guide. We did a knobby 2 pitch route that was immediately to the left of “Upstairs”. Pitch one started up the ramp of Upstairs, then zagged left onto the knobby face to the first two bolts, then continued straight up past several more bolts to the anchor. There was a fixed line on both pitches. I fell on the relatively blank cruz of P1 and aided through it on the fixed line, felt like hard 5.10. P2 winded up and right through a clearing in the moss on more knobby face climbing with a crux toward the finish that really tested my smearing, probably mid 5.10. One of the chicken heads exploded underfoot and lots of the granite was exfoliating so it was heads up. Safely bolted though. Felt like an amazing accomplishment to get P2 clean. Wonderful view from the top, rapped off on rings.

Upstairs 5.5 Trad

Race Crack Area

Shane crushed it on lead for our warm up

Sun 25 Feb 2024

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak

Just a Local Nobody 5.10a Trad

P-Wall

At the recommendation of David, this thing is really fun and secure! Easier than its neighbor senior moment I thought. With grace

Camel 5.10b/c Sport, TR

Cracked Wall

Warmup with grace. This thing is 10d at least

Senior Moment 5.10a Trad

P-Wall

One of my favorite climbs in SLO so far! A variety of movement and fun to stick a couple cams (and a nut!) in between the bolts. With Grace who also crushed it

Sun 04 Feb 2024

California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face

Double Cross 5.7+ Trad

Smashing fun with grace and Eden! Great way to end the trip

Sat 03 Feb 2024

California > Joshua Tree National Park

Cryptic 5.8 Sport

Central Joshua Tree > Sheep Pass Area > Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock

Felt spooky haha but a very fun formation to go up. With grace and Eden

Karpkwitz 5.6 Trad

Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - West Face

With grace and Eden :)

The Bong 5.4 Trad

Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley Campground > The Blob > The Blob - North Face

With grace and Eden :)

Illusion Dweller 5.10b Trad

Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > The Sentinel > The Sentinel - West Face

So fun great challenge! Fell at the roof, then nailed it on the second go with a high foot and the hidden pocket. With grace and Eden on a perfect bluebird day

Sat 02 Dec 2023

California > Southern-Western Sierra > Hwy 168:Tollhouse, Shaver Lake, Courtright > Tollhouse Rock > Main Wall

Tollhouse Traverse 5.5 Trad

Shane crushed it on lead. Followed with Colin, beautiful day beautiful weather

Elephant Walk 5.7+ Trad

With Colin and Shane :) fell for the 5.10 trap but recovered. The first pitch and the dihedral were money!!!

Sun 26 Nov 2023

Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Moe's Valley > Sentinel Area > The Fang Boulder

Fang Traverse V3 Boulder

Gave it 2 goes but my ring finger is hurting so don’t wanna push it. I think it’ll go healthy, feels easier than Coco

Poco V1- Boulder

Coco V2-3 Boulder

4 tries, once I figured out my feet it wasn’t so bad :) right ring finger is still giving me pain

Sun 19 Nov 2023

Nevada > Southern Nevada

Welcome to Detroit V4 Boulder

Red Rock Boulders > (01) Calico Basin Boulders > Kraft Boulders > (01) West Cluster > Sorange Boulder

6 tries, felt desperate getting the left hand jug from the lower rail, full wing span!

The Nightcrawler 5.10+ Trad

Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Canyon > Brownstone Wall

With Daniel negless, fun day! Learned a lot about stemming in corners. We did it with a 70 and downclimbed the last 15-20 feet, would do it that way again pretty safe

Sorange V3 Boulder

Red Rock Boulders > (01) Calico Basin Boulders > Kraft Boulders > (01) West Cluster > Sorange Boulder

4th try, once I got the bottom feet dialed in. Pretty good feet after the start, fingers felt good!

Sun 12 Nov 2023

Arizona > Northern Arizona > *Northern AZ Bouldering* > *Flagstaff Bouldering* > Priest Draw Area > Priest Draw > The Bat Roof

The Bat Cave V3+ Boulder

Couldn’t quite link the whole thing, I peeled off on the move before the lip a few times, didn’t quite have the endurance. Best beta for me was staying to the climbers right, left hand undercling, bump right hand from jug rail to thin pinch to 3 finger pocket/jam. From there bump left hand to pinch, then left hand to lip. Foot jams in pockets the whole way, felt best with opposing foot jams relative to active hand. Next time!

The Fin V1-2 Boulder

5 goes to figure out my beta. Ended up dynoing from the jug rail to the top. A fist jam technique almost went for me, but it took a lot of strength and I couldn’t execute it after doing the problem from the start

Sat 04 Nov 2023

California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering

Yeti V4 Boulder

The Brickyard > Yeti Boulder

Got the bottom sequence dialed, was able to hit the jug 6 times in a row once I figured out the deadpoint. I got shut down by the direct top out though, I think it was a combination of fear and bad foot beta. Didn’t want to try the left side top out without a spotter. So close!

Emergency Response V3 Boulder

The Lizard's Mouth > Kelly's Hill

5.11 Crack V3 Boulder

The Lizard's Mouth > Kelly's Hill

Sat 28 Oct 2023

California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Lizard's Mouth

Shaken, Not Stirred V3 Boulder

Femme Fatale Area

Took me ~10 attempts, finally felt possible when I stuck the windmill move

Moon River V0 Boulder

Meilee Area

Faided, Fat, Greedy Woman V4 Boulder

Meilee Area

Couldn’t figure out the mantle :(

Ace in the Hole V2 Boulder

Meilee Area

Nightmare Alley V1- Boulder

Meilee Area

Sat 14 Oct 2023

California > Central Coast > Hwy 166/Silly Rock > Owl Tor

Happy to be Here 5.11a Sport

Fun effort with Lindsay! Fell like 3 times lol, then gave it another shot on top rope and fell twice. The sequences were all very doable but gotta work on that endurance

Wed 27 Sept 2023

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Shadow Rock

Simple Man 5.10a PG13 Sport

Sun 24 Sept 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes

Southeast Buttress 5.6 Trad, Alpine

Simul climb with Remick! Hiked out with Lindsay, Bridget, and Jill (who also did Cathedral). We wanted to do West Pillar of Eichorn direct, but there was a very slow line at the base. After an hour we bailed and decided to simul Cathedral instead. Super fun, probably took us 60-90 minutes. No trax which wasn't ideal

Sat 23 Sept 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows

Bull Dozier 5.7 Trad

Dozier Dome

With Lindsay, super fun knob and crack climbing :) I lead the bulge pitch (2) she led the others

West Country 5.7 Trad, Alpine

Stately Pleasure Dome

With Remick! And Lindsay, Bridget, and Jillian behind us. Lead the lieback pitches

Fri 22 Sept 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes

Southeast Buttress 5.6 Trad, Alpine

Swung leads with Colin Simon fun day!

Sat 02 Sept 2023

California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > * Bishop Peak Bouldering > Chlorissa

Mushy V3 Boulder

Mon 28 Aug 2023

California > High Sierra > 12 - Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Grove > Charlotte Dome

South Face 5.8 Trad, Alpine

With Bridget! Amazing day. Made the eastern approach the day before, hiked out the day after, camping at the stream about a half mile from the dome along the climber’s trail. She led most of the 5.6, I led the other pitches. Route finding was tricky through the furrows, we were likely off route and missed the flake entirely, going through the bushes instead. I particularly enjoyed the wide crack after the slot, and pulling on all the chicken heads at the top! Used the recommended rack, didn’t need the #3

Sat 05 Aug 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Valley North Side > E. Yosemite Falls Area > Five Open Books

Selaginella 5.8 Trad

Second Tier

With Colin! Chossy and awkward but lots of fun. We blew by the p3 traverse and has to make a higher leftward traverse to a ledge mid p4

Munginella 5.6 Trad

First Tier

With Colin

Sun 30 Jul 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Valley North Side > E. Yosemite Falls Area > A. Swan Slab

Lena's Lieback 5.9 Trad

With Lindsay Jacob and Brady

Sat 29 Jul 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest

Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North 5.7 Trad, Alpine

Simul with Lindsay, Jacob, Brady, Jet, and his friend Nick

Fri 28 Jul 2023

California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Valley North Side > E. Yosemite Falls Area

Commitment 5.9 Trad

Five Open Books > First Tier

With Lindsay, Jacob, and Brady

Grant's Crack 5.9 Trad, TR

A. Swan Slab

Tue 27 Jun 2023

International > Europe > Greece > Crete > Plakias

Eftapsichos 5.10 Sport

With Madison, this route really challenged me and I fell at every other bolt it seemed!

Menios 5.10a Sport

With Madison

Fodele 5.10b Sport

With Madison, only did the first pitch

Thu 22 Jun 2023

International > Europe > Greece > Crete > Theriso Gorge

Unknown 5.9+ Sport

With Madison, this isn’t the exact route we did but it’s the only one currently on MP for the sector. We were at the Albatros Nest area, hopped on Albotros 5c+ and I think a 6 but I forget which one. Fun morning in a beautiful gorge. The sun came into the gorge around 9 and really cooked us so the session was short.

Thu 01 Jun 2023

California > Southern-Western Sierra > Hwy 168:Tollhouse, Shaver Lake, Courtright > Tollhouse Rock

Platinum Plus 5.8 Trad

Cap Rocks

With Colin and Shane! Bit of shenanigans rappelling down to the start but very fun once we did. This climb is on the right side of the arete, I believe the crack on the left is the 10

Tollhouse Traverse 5.5 Trad

Main Wall

With Colin and Shane, stayed at Jocelyn's Mom's house in Tollhouse!

Wed 29 Mar 2023

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Canyon > Rose Tower

Olive Oil 5.7 Trad

With Bridget and Remick

Mon 06 Feb 2023

California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face

Double Cross 5.7+ Trad

With Evan

Sun 05 Feb 2023

California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley Campground > The Blob > The Blob - West Face

Hobbit Roof 5.10d V1- Trad, Boulder

Lead on gear cuz I ain't crazy

Sat 04 Feb 2023

California > Joshua Tree National Park > Pinto Basin > Split Rocks > Split Rocks West > Isles in the Sky > Isles in the Sky (Northeast Face)

Bird of Fire 5.10a Trad

With Evan. TR'd first then sent! Freezing cold weather fingies were hurting

Sat 29 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak > North Face

Triassic Sands 5.10 Trad

With Bradley. Lead pitches 1 and 4 and some of the top out scrambling. Slipped and fell following the crux, lowered and then did it clean

Thu 20 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (09) Icebox Canyon > Frigid Air Buttress

Frigid Air Buttress 5.9+ Trad

Sun 09 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall

Epinephrine 5.9 Trad

With Evan :)

Sat 08 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (16) Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak > North Face

Frogland 5.8 Trad

Fri 07 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Coco Crag

Moon Where the Wind Blows 5.9 Sport

Snagglepuss 5.11a Sport

Cocopuss 5.10- Sport

Stupid Cat 5.11a Sport

Thu 06 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Coco Crag

Moon Where the Wind Blows 5.9 Sport

Snagglepuss 5.11a Sport

Cocopuss 5.10- Sport

Tue 04 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Riding Hood Wall

Big Bad Wolf 5.9 Sport

Mon 03 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (03) First Pullout (Calico I) > Civilization Crag

Manifest Destiny 5.9+ Sport

Babylon 5.8 5.8 Sport

Sun 02 Oct 2022

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (12) Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Solar Slab 5.6 Trad

Sat 17 Sept 2022

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Fairview Dome > North Face

Regular Route 5.9 Trad

Sat 16 Jul 2022

California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range

Southeast Buttress 5.6 Trad, Alpine

Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes

Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North 5.7 Trad, Alpine

Matthes Crest

Simul with evan

Sat 21 May 2022

California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Valley North Side > H. Royal Arches Area > Royal Arches > Central Royal Arches

Royal Arches (5.10- or 5.7 A0) 5.10a A0 Trad, Aid